I want to share my thoughts about developing Shuteye! I've lived in Yosemite for the last 5 years and have been immersed in climbing for 7. There are many new people discovering climbing every year which is a growing concern for current climbers. It may not be a bad thing. Climbing has changed my entire life and challenges me to be a greater person. I hope to hear what climbing means for you (leave a comment). One of the concerns is that climbing areas are getting too crowded. We, as a community, need to be more aware of the impact we have on the environments we frequent. I'm constantly learning new ways to lower my impact. My hope is that with the constant education I receive in the outdoors that I will be able to share my knowledge with others, and in turn, lower their impact as well. Another major concern is the build up of cars in the parking lot but Shuteye can accommodate the demand. These are some of the topics I'm looking to address.
The boulders at Shuteye Ridge are currently being developed and an increase in traffic and the subsequent environmental impact is something we can manage wisely through education. So, I'm taking the first step towards changing the way the community thinks about the inevitable impact we will have on climbing areas both old and new. It starts with increasing awareness through proper education. Shuteye Ridge is a unique area in that it is reasonably far away from any established town. It isn't as easy to reach as Yosemite or Bishop, for example, as a high clearance vehicle is needed to drive all the way to the boulders. While it is possible to reach the climbing area without clearance, a somewhat strenuous hike awaits the truly determined climber. This alone will limit the impact we have on the area as it will see lower traffic than the areas I mentioned above which have no access related hurdles to clear. Given the remote nature of the area, I plan to establish an outhouse with the cooperation of the USFS before I release the bouldering guide. This will be a tremendous aid in protecting the environment from the inevitable impact our community will have on Shuteye Ridge. My approach to the development at Shuteye will be responsible and hope my approach will inspire the same from the rest of the climbing community. My ultimate hope is that I will motivate others to adopt a Leave No Trace ethic, not just at Shuteye Ridge, but in all climbing areas.
I intend to convey a positive and responsible message to the climbing community as well as the climbing industry with the ongoing Shuteye Ridge development project. Preserving our beloved climbing areas starts with you. How hard will you work for it?
Thursday, March 19, 2015
Friday, October 17, 2014
Friction Labs
FrictionsLabs are supplying chalk to develop Shuteye's bouldering! I had a great experience testing their chalk and happy to share my experience.
"Some people say, "chalk is chalk." Not true. A team of world-class geologists and chemists recently conducted independent tests on 5 of the most common chalks for rock climbing. The results were clear: FrictionLabs chalk is the purest out there. " - FrictionLabs
The quality of chalk can be overlooked. Could you have the answer for these following questions?
How much does chalk matter? Can chalk be improved for climbing? Would improvements make a significant difference?
It's a question FrictionLabs has explored scientifically. I personally say yes to all three of the questions. It makes sense and I realize theres always room for improvements in life!
By clicking on this image below you'll see the scientific method that creates FrictionLabs's chalk!
More Magnesium Carbonate = Dryer hands = Better performance
I'm fortunate to be immersed in rock climbing. I've been climbing close to 7 years. In climbing, rock types vary along with their friction and formations. I've been faced with different climates and weather conditions which can effects the conditions for rock climbing. When climbing, Chalk is fundamental and significant to our climbing success. Chalk helps with our grip and keeps moisture off our hands that could cause us to slip off the rock. I've used every type of chalk for climbing such as powdered chalk, block chalk, and liquid chalk. Each kind has differences in it's performance for climbing. In relating the differences of FrictionLabs Unicorn chalk to any other brand I could get my hands on, even Frank Endo, It performs the best.
Unicorn chalk doesn't excessively dry-out my hands like liquid chalk. It sticks on my hands and I find myself not having to chalk up as often. It's well balanced in it's composition and top quality chalk. I encourage any one to check it out and would enjoy to hear about your experiences climbing with chalk made by FrictionLabs!
GET SOME!
FrictionLabs makes it very convenient for you to get their products onto your hands. Just by subscribing you'll get 30% off your first order by entering shuteye30! The benefits of signing up is that your able to modify the monthly amount of chalk your receiving and change your delivery to any postal address that's convenient to you. Change, pause, or cancel your subscription at any time totally free of charge, no string attached! Subscribe monthly for your convince or just place an one-time purchase, all orders are entirely commitment free! If your can't decide which brand of chalk on the market suets you best, FrictionLabs has a solution, Sample Packs! At $8, you can sample 1oz of each blend to help you discover which blend meets your needs, you won't regret it! I encourage you to follow their Facebook page to witness how they have been benefiting the climbing community! I hope your able to pulling down with the best chalk made for climbing where ever you're at in the world!
Thursday, October 2, 2014
Latest developments in Shuteye's Bouldering!
Here's the latest on Shuteye's bouldering development... I'll begin by stating that it was an eventful summer with the French Fire burning so close to Shuteye Ridge in Sierra National Forest. I witnessed the flames on the summit of high eagle!
In this report I'll keep it brief, but in later reports I'll give a more detailed account of my efforts, the different areas, and the nature of Shuteye's bouldering! I'll include that I've been refining a map that marks the progress made, areas discovered, and potential areas...
I've been exploring Shuteye with many friends since April of 2013, searching for boulders, and we discovered lots of concentrated areas, which was the first step in our approach. In Shuteye there's still a few large areas yet to be explored for bouldering, but I know where to begin (thanks to Google Earth). I'm psyched on what I will discover!
My next step after exploring all the potential areas is to gather a team of experienced climbers to develop the inspiring boulders discovered. If you have any questions send in an email at Shuteyeridgeboulding@gmail.com
Once again special thanks to Asana, 5.10, and others you'll discover that are a support in this process.
This summer I was joined in an expedition with many of my friends. It was an incredible experience and an inspiring beginning. Thank you all for your time! On this post I'm reporting a trip I was able to document. On this trip I was joined by Matt Bento, Courtney Gayer, Stephen Gross, and Chiara Gross. Here are some photos shot by Stephen Scott Gross:
The photos below are Chiara and Matt bouldering near Friendly camp. Chiara is on the left wall of where Courtney is bouldering (Courtney's photo is below Chiara's). Matt's bouldering on Sleeping Bear
Courtney on a sit start which begins a few variations (bottom left).
Me cleaning a steep powerful crimp line (bottom right).
On to the next area...
Around a 15 minute hike towards Queen's Dome there is a small concentration of boulders with around 20+ problems. Here are some photos of the area.
The photos below are Me and Stephen on Power house.
The view from the top of boulders in this area give a remarkable view of Queen's Dome. (below)
On to the next area...
The trail leading back to Friendly camp from High Eagle with the Talon on the right. (below)
The photos above are a coiled Rattlesnake we discovered on the trial when we hiked back from bouldering (be cautious!) and Chiara pulling on some patinas at the High Eagle bouldering area!!
The photos below are of the Safari boulder on the top of High Eagle.. The High Eagle boulders are around a 20 minute hike form Friendly Camp. The number of problems in this area is still a great question, so far around 50+. Matt is on Super Cruiser (left photo). Me and Matt working on Shuteye Safari (right photo).
Below is a film captured by Stephen Gross on his i-phone of Shuteye Safari, a classic moderate. The boulder problem start's on a roof that you climb out of onto a 30 degree over hanging face that eventually tops out after a 30-40 foot traverse..
I had fun editing my first video! Enjoy!
My seasonal work in Yosemite is nearly done. With this opportunity of free time, I'll be completely immersed in developing Shuteye and will be posting on the blog frequently. I've discovered plenty of inspiring climbs. The goal to develop Shuteye has been a process, and I want to share the experience.
During the end of this trip to Shuteye Ridge Stephen told me he had some old gear laying around that he didn't need and asked for my mailing address. Time passed by and sooner then later I suddenly had a package waiting for me to pick up. To my surprise, I was given box full of gear that's worth about $3,000! It included a nice card made by Chiara, winter and climbing gear, and a Mac Book Pro!
(Chiara's Card)
Thank you so much Chiara!Every part of this thoughtful gift moved me profoundly. It inspires me deeply. I'm looking forward to finding an opportunity to be as kind, thoughtful, and compassionate to some one else in need... We're all fortunate to have the kind of culture we do in our climbing and outdoor community. Our culture is in a beautiful disposition, genuinely within incredible places, people, moments, and experiences. It gives me so much life!
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
Five Ten, Another Supporting Element In Shuteye Ridge's Bouldering Development!
Five Ten's is providing their supports for the development of Shuteye's huge bouldering Mecca with their incredible products. Let me introduce you to some of their products, the Dragon (great for steep overhangs) and The Pink (great for moving on technical slabs). Five Ten shoes work well for establishing the different kinds of bouldering problems and help in performing novel movements we all encounter!
Five Ten has verity in hiking shoes, I use the Camp Four - Dark Shadow which is highly useful for approaches, slick rock, Aid climbing, and sketchy trials in the mountains. It will get you back from your destination in a comfortable shoe. Explore the verity of Five Ten's incredible products to facilitate your adventures in climbing, hiking, and biking!
The History of Five Ten
Five Ten, which is named after the Yosemite Decimal Point System, started out from the experience within climbing. Charles Cole, In July of 1985, after a particularly exhausting solo marathon up the Steck Salathe on El-Captain in Yosemite National Park, Cole, in his hurry to return to Camp 4, had a near-miss slip while descending to the valley floor. By the time he safely reached the ground he had formulated a plan and Five Ten was born! Since then, Five Ten "the Band of the Brave" has been leading in revolutionizing climbing products in performance, and high-friction footwear enhancing our experience and safety!
Thursday, January 30, 2014
Asana, A Supporting Element In Shuteye Ridge's Bouldering Development!!
Asana has been a leading pioneer in the art of developing bouldering gear. They have helped the climbing community by designing products that enhance our safety since 1999. I must mention they have a COOL COLOR selection. Their pad designs are very innovated with products such as the Gunther Supperhighball Pad (which can piggy-back another pad in it's straps). Also, the Pro Spotter Pad, ( Which I recommend watching the video on the link to view the usefulness of this pad! ) it's the top supplemental pad made for climbers. Check out the different Asana products for your next adventure!
Thursday, January 23, 2014
The First Development Trip In September 2013
Photos of my first bouldering trip to develop Shuteye Ridge, joined with my friends in September of 2013. I am ready to head back into Shuteye this coming April of 2014, until Shuteye's gates close due to snow. Bouldering hasn't been developed and thousand us of undeveloped boulders rest in Shuteye Ridge! If you want to plan a trip feel free to ask me any questions on what to bring, I want to help you! Shuteye is tough to visit by car without high clearance, 4 wheel drive and all terrain tires. I recommend to stay prepared if you plan to head there and please, share with us on this blog! You can keep in touch with our Facebook page "Shuteye Ridge Bouldering Development" or feel free to just post on the Blog. Thank you for reading and psyched for the adventures ahead at Shuteye Ridge!
!
Rock Bear
Us feeling the Shuteye Psyche(top)
Crack is unclimbed(left)- John Backer would be really PSYCHED!
Another womb problem (right)
Rock Bear
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Tommy Caldwell's experience at Shuteye Ridge!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)