Friction Labs

 

  

FrictionsLabs are supplying chalk to develop Shuteye's bouldering! I had a great experience testing their chalk and happy to share my experience.

"Some people say, "chalk is chalk." Not true. A team of world-class geologists and chemists recently conducted independent tests on 5 of the most common chalks for rock climbing. The results were clear: FrictionLabs chalk is the purest out there. " - FrictionLabs

The quality of chalk can be overlooked. Could you have the answer for these following questions?

 How much does chalk matter? Can chalk be improved for climbing? Would improvements make a significant difference?

It's a question FrictionLabs has explored scientifically. I personally say yes to all three of the questions. It makes sense and I realize theres always room for improvements in life!

By clicking on this image below you'll see the scientific method that creates FrictionLabs's chalk!

                                       Other Chalk brands:                           FrictionLabs:
                                                     
                                More Magnesium Carbonate = Dryer hands = Better performance

I'm fortunate to be immersed in rock climbing.  I've been climbing close to 7 years. In climbing, rock types vary along with their friction and formations.  I've been faced with different climates and weather conditions which can effects the conditions for rock climbing.  When climbing, Chalk is fundamental and significant to our climbing success. Chalk helps with our grip and keeps moisture off our hands that could cause us to slip off the rock.  I've used every type of chalk for climbing such as powdered chalk, block chalk, and liquid chalk.  Each kind has differences in it's performance for climbing.  In relating the differences of FrictionLabs Unicorn chalk to any other brand I could get my hands on, even Frank Endo, It performs the best. 

Unicorn chalk doesn't excessively dry-out my hands like liquid chalk.  It sticks on my hands and I find myself not having to chalk up as often.  It's well balanced in it's composition and top quality chalk.  I encourage any one to check it out and would enjoy to hear about your experiences climbing with chalk made by FrictionLabs!

GET SOME!
FrictionLabs makes it very convenient for you to get their products onto your hands. Just by subscribing you'll get 30% off your first order by entering shuteye30! The benefits of signing up is that your able to modify the monthly amount of chalk your receiving and change your delivery to any postal address that's convenient to you. Change, pause, or cancel your subscription at any time totally free of charge, no string attached! Subscribe monthly for your convince or just place an one-time purchase, all orders are entirely commitment free! If your can't decide which brand of chalk on the market suets you best, FrictionLabs has a solution, Sample Packs! At $8, you can sample 1oz of each blend to help you discover which blend meets your needs, you won't regret it! I encourage you to follow their Facebook page to witness how they have been benefiting the climbing community! I hope your able to pulling down with the best chalk made for climbing where ever you're at in the world!

Latest developments in Shuteye's Bouldering!

Here's the latest on Shuteye's bouldering development... I'll begin by stating that it was an eventful summer with the French Fire burning so close to Shuteye Ridge in Sierra National Forest. I witnessed the flames on the summit of high eagle!

In this report I'll keep it brief, but in later reports I'll give a more detailed account of my efforts, the different areas, and the nature of Shuteye's bouldering! I'll include that I've been refining a map that marks the progress made, areas discovered, and potential areas... 

                                                     (Me visioning a new line on the Talon)

 I've been exploring Shuteye with many friends since April of 2013, searching for boulders, and we discovered lots of concentrated areas, which was the first step in our approach. In Shuteye there's still a few large areas yet to be explored for bouldering, but I know where to begin (thanks to Google Earth). I'm psyched on what I will discover!

My next step after exploring all the potential areas is to gather a team of experienced climbers to develop the inspiring boulders discovered. If you have any questions send in an email at Shuteyeridgeboulding@gmail.com

Once again special thanks to Asana, 5.10, and others you'll discover that are a support in this process.

This summer I was joined in an expedition with many of my friends. It was an incredible experience and an inspiring beginning. Thank you all for your time! On this post I'm reporting a trip I was able to document. On this trip I was joined by Matt Bento, Courtney Gayer, Stephen Gross, and Chiara Gross. Here are some photos shot by Stephen Scott Gross:

The pleasant forest near Friendly camp (above). Me and Chiara enjoying the morning after a nice meal (bottom right). Stephen and Chiara's pitched tent (bottom left).

                                               Exfoliation site near High Eagle! (above)

The photos below are Chiara and Matt bouldering near Friendly camp. Chiara is on the left wall of where Courtney is bouldering (Courtney's photo is below Chiara's). Matt's bouldering on Sleeping Bear

Courtney on a sit start which begins a few variations (bottom left).

Me cleaning a steep powerful crimp line (bottom right).

On to the next area...

Around a 15 minute hike towards Queen's Dome there is a small concentration of boulders with around 20+ problems. Here are some photos of the area.

                              The photos above are Me and Matt on Mr. Olympia a classic moderate.

                                       The photos below are Me and Stephen on Power house.

The view from the top of boulders in this area give a remarkable view of Queen's Dome. (below)

                                                                 On to the next area...

             The trail leading back to Friendly camp from High Eagle with the Talon on the right. (below)

The photos above are a coiled Rattlesnake we discovered on the trial when we hiked back from bouldering (be cautious!) and Chiara pulling on some patinas at the High Eagle bouldering area!!  

The photos below are of the Safari boulder on the top of High Eagle.. The High Eagle boulders are around a 20 minute hike form Friendly Camp. The number of problems in this area is still a great question, so far around 50+. Matt is on Super Cruiser (left photo). Me and Matt working on Shuteye Safari (right photo).

 Below is a film captured by Stephen Gross on his i-phone of Shuteye Safari, a classic moderate. The boulder problem start's on a roof that you climb out of onto a 30 degree over hanging face that eventually tops out after a 30-40 foot traverse..   

I had fun editing my first video! Enjoy!

                                       


My seasonal work in Yosemite is nearly done. With this opportunity of free time, I'll be completely immersed in developing Shuteye and will be posting on the blog frequently. I've discovered plenty of inspiring climbs. The goal to develop Shuteye has been a process, and I want to share the experience.

During the end of this trip to Shuteye Ridge Stephen told me he had some old gear laying around that he didn't need and asked for my mailing address. Time passed by and sooner then later I suddenly had a package waiting for me to pick up. To my surprise, I was given box full of gear that's worth about $3,000! It included a nice card made by Chiara, winter and climbing gear, and a Mac Book Pro!

(Chiara's Card)

                                                                 Thank you so much Chiara!

Every part of this thoughtful gift moved me profoundly. It inspires me deeply. I'm looking forward to finding an opportunity to be as kind, thoughtful, and compassionate to some one else in need... We're all fortunate to have the kind of culture we do in our climbing and outdoor community. Our culture is in a beautiful disposition, genuinely within incredible places, people, moments, and experiences. It gives me so much life!